From Craftsmanship to Global Recognition: The Rise of Chorus
Chanakya's Enduring Legacy and the Birth of Chorus
For forty years, India's Chanakya International has been the silent force behind some of the world's most detailed embroidery, adorning creations for esteemed brands such as Dior, Prada, and Fendi. A notable highlight was their contribution to Dior's 2023 pre-fall show at Mumbai's Gateway of India. Now, this distinguished Mumbai workshop is pursuing an even more ambitious goal: evolving from a highly influential producer for other fashion houses into a recognized global brand under its own name.
The Visionaries Behind Chorus: Karishma and Avantika Swali
This groundbreaking venture is Chorus, a brand conceived by Karishma Swali, who serves as Chanakya International's creative director and managing director, alongside her daughter, Avantika, in late 2025. Swali articulated to Vogue Business, 'Avantika and I established Chorus as a multidisciplinary endeavor, deeply rooted in the textile wisdom of the Indian subcontinent. We aim to create womenswear, artistic objects, and artworks that envision textiles as structural elements.' The brand's inaugural resort collection will debut this week exclusively on Moda Operandi as a wholesale offering, and will also be accessible through Chorus's official online platform.
From Moonray to Chorus: A Journey of Evolution and Global Ambition
Although a relatively new label, having been established just seven months ago and already boasting two retail locations in Mumbai and Delhi, in addition to being stocked at Galeries Lafayette Mumbai, Chorus's development spans several years. It builds upon Chanakya's extensive 40-year heritage of preserving and advancing traditional crafts, during which the company has created approximately 10,000 historical pieces globally and conducted over 100,000 documented craft explorations. Prior to Chorus, the mother-daughter duo launched Moonray during the pandemic, envisioning it as a 'haven of delight where artistry, mindfulness, and beauty converged effortlessly.' Within a few years, Moonray cultivated a devoted community that valued ethical production and thoughtful design. Moonray, with its stores in Mumbai and Delhi, also retailed on Indian e-commerce platforms like Tata Cliq Luxury, becoming a favored choice among the urban creative set. In 2023, the brand participated in the 'Sutr Santati: Then. Now. Next' exhibition at the National Gallery of Modern Art (NGMA) in Mumbai, presenting a textile-based installation titled Infinity Fields. Moonray ceased operations in 2025 to pave the way for Chorus, a transition Swali describes as an 'evolution' rather than a discontinuation. She explains, 'As Moonray's foundations strengthened, so did its distinct identity. Chorus represents that subsequent chapter.' While Moonray focused primarily on the Indian domestic market, Chorus endeavors to introduce an Indian brand globally that can effortlessly stand alongside international contemporary labels without appearing imitative.
The Essence of the Chorus Woman and Its Diverse Offerings
According to Swali, 'The Chorus woman is inquisitive, perpetually seeking, and possesses discerning taste. She navigates diverse cultures with ease, and regards personal style as a means of self-expression.' The brand encompasses five interconnected branches: Chorus ready-to-wear, Chorus Edition (its bespoke line), Chorus Café, Chorus Wellness, and Chorus Concept. These facets are brought to life within its three-story flagship store situated in a historic building in Mumbai. Swali further elaborates, 'Apparel is displayed alongside interdisciplinary wall art and sculptures throughout the space, ensuring the collection is never isolated but forms part of a broader material dialogue.' While Swali spearheads the brand, her 19-year-old daughter, Avantika, currently studying art history at Stanford, plays a crucial role within the design collective. This core creative team includes Swali, as well as Tina and Nikita Sutradhar, recipients of the 2014 LVMH Special Jury Prize, designer Joohi Mehta, and embroidery specialist Renu Sahu. The Resort 2027 collection draws inspiration from the botanical motifs of Indian chintz and the flowing silhouettes of the sari and dhoti, two of the subcontinent's most ancient unstitched garments. This emphasis on fluid, unrestrained movement is evident throughout the collection, featuring skirts that gracefully wrap and fall, and tops that softly drape over the body. The collection was developed in collaboration with Saliyar weavers in Tamil Nadu and Angami Naga weavers in Nagaland.
A Global Bet on Indian Craftsmanship and Its Market Appeal
The timing appears opportune. The fashion industry is increasingly embracing inclusivity and diversity in its offerings, often turning to the East for creative inspiration. Consumers are also recognizing that craftsmanship and artistry are fundamental drivers of luxury fashion today. Swali believes, 'This moment feels genuinely exhilarating for craft in a broader sense. There's a tangible, growing global appreciation for what these traditional knowledge systems can contribute to contemporary design.' Since its inception, international sales have accounted for 40% of Chorus's e-commerce revenue, with strong performance in the Middle East and the US, making the brand's collaboration with Moda Operandi a natural fit. Marc Rofsky, VP of ready-to-wear merchandising at Moda Operandi, notes, 'We initially introduced the brand earlier this year through a trunk show, and in response to its reception, we expanded our in-season development for our curated selection.' With price points ranging from $420 to $7,200, the brand strategically occupies a niche where textile and embroidery-centric design converges with the demand for eveningwear. He adds, 'Chorus presents a unique value proposition, characterized by a feminine, refined aesthetic that continues to command strong interest in the eveningwear market.'
Navigating Global Expansion with an Indian Heart
While Swali is keen on broadening Chorus's global footprint, the Indian market, which many international luxury brands are eyeing, remains a cornerstone of her strategy. She clarifies, 'We aim for both markets to expand synergistically, rather than treating them as sequential steps. Chorus has always been a practice rooted in India with a global outlook, and that is precisely how we envision its growth.' The brand maintains a firm footing in India while extending its reach outwards, ultimately intending to introduce the full spectrum of the Chorus label to the world. Its rich heritage makes this aspiration achievable. Chanakya's decades of expertise in India's extensive and ancient textile and embroidery traditions, cultivated through collaborations with leading Western luxury houses, provides it with a unique ability to fuse Eastern and Western aesthetics in a way few other brands can.
The Fusion of Artistry and Commercial Appeal
Valerie Miegeville, chief buying and merchandising officer at Galeries Lafayette India, remarks on the mother-daughter founded label: 'It embodies sculptural elegance and construction quality typically associated with European ateliers, yet remains profoundly and authentically Indian in its craft legacy. The silhouettes are ageless and designed to meet the actual dressing preferences of Indian women for various occasions. As a representative of Indian contemporary fashion, Chorus occupies that space with remarkable precision.' Celebrity stylist Divyak D’Souza, who has already dressed several clients in Chorus creations, has observed a similar equilibrium. He states, 'It perfectly balances the desire of a consumer seeking to purchase a dress with the aspiration of a stylist or fashion professional looking for something innovative and fresh. They have masterfully captured that blend of creative vision and commercial viability,' while adding that the label might even be ahead of the Indian consumer. 'Within India, we are still discerning the market for these accessible luxury, demi-couture adjacent brands.' Chorus signifies more than just the emergence of another Indian fashion label on the international stage. It signals a broader paradigm shift: one where ateliers, long instrumental in shaping luxury from behind the scenes, are now stepping forward to define it under their own names.