Ganni and Stem, two prominent Copenhagen fashion labels, have once again joined forces, showcasing a captivating collection during Copenhagen Fashion Week. This collaboration marks a significant evolution, as Stem's creative director, Sarah Brunnhuber, ingeniously transformed Ganni's unused fabrics into unique, runway-ready pieces. The collection beautifully merges Ganni's bold, fashion-forward silhouettes with Stem's steadfast commitment to zero-waste practices and natural materials, creating a line that is both innovative and environmentally conscious.
The initial partnership between Ganni and Stem in 2022 captivated audiences with its distinctive dark-wash denim, intricate white contour stitching, and deliberately frayed edges. This early success established a strong foundation for their renewed collaboration, demonstrating the enduring appeal of their combined creative vision.
For Ganni, this collaboration offered a meaningful opportunity to contribute to its origins in Copenhagen, particularly as the brand expands its presence to Paris. Creative director Ditte Reffstrup emphasized the importance of maintaining ties with Copenhagen Fashion Week, viewing it as a platform for fostering community and nurturing emerging talent within the industry.
The latest collection represents a notable departure from Stem's established aesthetic. Known for its undyed garments and earthy, vegetable-toned palette, Stem ventured into a vibrant new territory. The runway featured an exciting array of red and white picnic checks, luxurious floral jacquards, and even unexpected leopard prints, signifying a creative breakthrough for the burgeoning brand.
Brunnhuber, typically adhering to a strict design philosophy centered on natural fibers and mono-materials to optimize her zero-waste weaving techniques, embraced the challenge of incorporating Ganni's diverse deadstock fabrics. She expressed her excitement at working with an expanded spectrum of colors, prints, and materials, which she would not typically produce herself. This exploration allowed her to infuse more personal style into the collection, describing the experience as akin to being 'a kid in a candy store'.
This venture also marked Brunnhuber's initial foray into utilizing synthetic fibers. She meticulously adapted her weaving methods to ensure the pieces retained Stem's recognizable signature feel. For the pleated skirts, she revived a technique developed for Stem's Fall 2026 collection, employing an industrial needle felting machine to create pleats without traditional stitching. The resulting fuzzy, matted tops provided a striking contrast to the sharply pleated bottoms. Additionally, some garments featured Stem's characteristic straggly edges, a design element originally conceived to minimize waste. Brunnhuber innovatively adapted this feature by stitching around pattern pieces and unraveling the fabric, achieving the same zero-waste effect with pre-woven deadstock materials.
Brunnhuber had long sought an opportunity to explore new creative avenues and utilize existing resources. She acknowledged the inherent limitations of her production technique, which typically necessitated the creation of new fabrics for each collection, and expressed her desire to work with materials already in existence. This collaboration provided the perfect platform for such an exploration.
Reffstrup lauded Stem's distinctive approach to garment construction and Brunnhuber's audacious spirit. She highlighted Stem's unique weaving, cutting, and sewing methods, which challenge conventional industry practices. This shared vision and mutual respect made the renewed collaboration a natural and compelling choice for both brands.
This renewed collaboration between Ganni and Stem not only pushes the boundaries of sustainable fashion but also champions creative innovation. By repurposing existing materials and integrating diverse design elements, the brands demonstrate a forward-thinking approach that redefines aesthetic possibilities within an eco-conscious framework. The collection stands as a testament to the power of collaboration in driving meaningful change and offering fresh perspectives within the global fashion landscape.