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Melanie Masarin's 'Riviera' Cookbook: A Culinary Journey to the Mediterranean

Tan France

Tan France

Fashion designer and TV host ("Queer Eye"), known for his classic style advice.

Mélanie Masarin, the visionary behind the popular non-alcoholic apéritif Ghia, has embarked on a new culinary adventure with the release of her inaugural cookbook, "Riviera: Recipes from the Coast of France and Italy." This collection of Mediterranean-inspired dishes is a deeply personal project, rooted in Masarin's childhood memories of cooking alongside her grandmother in France. The book seeks to demystify the art of home cooking, encouraging readers to embrace seasonal ingredients and adapt recipes to their own lives, much like the open-door, communal kitchen philosophy of her upbringing. From savory tarts to delicate cakes, Masarin's recipes are designed to bring people together, creating a joyful and unpretentious dining experience.

Melanie Masarin's New Cookbook Unveils Mediterranean Culinary Delights, Featuring a Beloved Fig and Yogurt Cake

As the warmth of summer approaches, drawing us toward dreams of sun-drenched days, refreshing swims, engrossing books, and delightful evening meals, Mélanie Masarin presents her debut cookbook, "Riviera: Recipes from the Coast of France and Italy." This much-anticipated release invites home cooks to savor the essence of a Mediterranean summer, fulfilling desires for fresh, vibrant flavors.

Masarin, widely recognized as the founder of Ghia, a chic non-alcoholic apéritif brand, channeled her formative years in France and cherished moments in her grandmother's kitchen into this culinary endeavor. She revealed to Vogue that her family's cooking traditions instilled in her a relaxed approach to the kitchen, where "neighbors and friends were always coming and going, and always offered something to eat or drink." This philosophy of the kitchen as a "place of respite" is what she strives to convey through her book.

The genesis of "Riviera" can be traced back to 2020, during a period of lockdown when Masarin found herself preparing uncomplicated meals and guiding friends through her cooking process. The consistent inquiries about her culinary creations inspired her to compile them, driven by the same intuition that led to Ghia's creation: to simplify and enhance the experience of social gatherings.

The cookbook, an effort to remove the intimidation factor from cooking, features accessible recipes such as tomato tarte tatin, perfectly seared scallops, and a French rendition of minestrone. Masarin emphasizes that an elaborate pantry is unnecessary, stating that most dishes rely on "good olive oil, flaky salt, fresh herbs, garlic, and a good attitude."

Among her favorites is the fig and yogurt cake, a recipe she affectionately describes as a sophisticated reimagining of her grandmother's classic pound cake. The recipe, passed down through generations, traditionally uses a yogurt pot as a measuring tool, embodying a charmingly imprecise yet consistently successful method. The cake itself is tender and subtly tangy from the yogurt, while the figs lend an elevated touch. Masarin encourages adaptability, suggesting other seasonal fruits like citrus, raspberries, or quince can be substituted, aligning with the book's overarching principle: to cook with what is in season and let recipes evolve with one's lifestyle. Below is her cherished recipe, generously shared with Vogue:

Fig and Yogurt Cake

Serves 8

Prep time: 20 minutes; Cook time: 35 minutes

This cake is a delightful introduction to French baking, often the first recipe children learn, using a yogurt container as a convenient measuring cup. The enduring appeal of this method lies in its simplicity: combine yogurt, sugar, flour, and oil in the same pot, and the result is consistently perfect. While I recommend a 5.3-ounce (125 g) yogurt pot, the recipe can be easily scaled up by using a larger pot for all ingredients while maintaining the same ratios. My grandmother's traditional recipe has been enhanced with almond flour and a crown of caramelized figs, yet its charmingly intuitive approach remains.

Ingredients

  • Unsalted butter, for greasing the pan, plus an additional 2 tablespoons if needed
  • 4 to 5 ripe fresh figs (any variety)
  • 2 tablespoons light or dark brown sugar, as required
  • One 5.3-ounce pot (125 g) plain whole milk yogurt
  • 3 large eggs
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • One 5.3-ounce yogurt pot (125 ml) olive oil
  • One 5.3-ounce yogurt pot (125 g) granulated sugar
  • Two 5.3-ounce yogurt pots (250g) almond flour
  • Three 5.3-ounce yogurt pots (375g) all-purpose flour
  • 1½ teaspoons baking powder
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt

Directions

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
  2. Generously butter a 9-inch round cake pan, then line the bottom with parchment paper and butter the paper as well. Halve the figs and arrange them cut-side up on the parchment. As they bake, the figs will caramelize, creating an attractive pattern once the cake is inverted. If the figs are not perfectly ripe, a sprinkle of brown sugar and a dab of butter will aid their caramelization.
  3. Transfer the yogurt to a large mixing bowl, retaining the empty container. Incorporate the eggs one at a time, ensuring thorough mixing after each addition. Stir in the vanilla and olive oil.
  4. Utilize the empty yogurt pot to measure the granulated sugar, almond flour, and all-purpose flour into a separate medium bowl. Add the baking powder and kosher salt, then whisk to combine.
  5. Gradually fold the dry ingredients into the yogurt mixture until just combined, being careful not to overmix. Pour the batter evenly over the arranged figs.
  6. Bake for approximately 35 minutes, or until the cake achieves a golden-brown hue and a knife inserted into its center comes out clean.
  7. Allow the cake to cool in the pan for 10 minutes before gently running a knife around the edges. Place a serving plate upside down over the cake, then carefully invert the cake onto the plate. Slice into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature. The cake remains moist and tender for about two days when covered with a kitchen towel at room temperature, though it is often enjoyed much sooner.

Masarin's "Riviera" cookbook is more than just a collection of recipes; it's an invitation to embrace a lifestyle characterized by warmth, generosity, and the simple pleasure of sharing good food. Her emphasis on adaptability and the use of fresh, seasonal ingredients serves as a gentle reminder that cooking should be a joyous and creative process, free from rigid rules. The narrative woven through her book, particularly the personal anecdotes about her grandmother, underscores the profound connection between food, family, and cultural heritage. This approach not only makes cooking accessible but also transforms it into a meaningful act of self-expression and connection. For anyone seeking to infuse their kitchen with the sun-drenched spirit of the Mediterranean, Masarin's work offers a delightful and inspiring guide.